This piece expands on the entry a wrote a little while ago about my trip to Portland. I fixed it up, made it a little longer – and hopefully better.
I had been in the country for less than a week and already it was happening. At first I was scared and apprehensive, I thought I had made a right mess of everything.
I arrived in Portland, Oregon after spending around 18 hours in transit. Jet-lagged, tired and lost I waddled to my hostel lugging twenty kilos on my back. Once I arrived, sitting on my top bunk in a room that housed six girls, self doubts were running through my head. What was I doing? What was I THINKING? It was obvious to me at the time that I hadn’t thought this through. Adventures like this are so plausible inside ones head, but reality can swiftly knock you off that cloud you had been so happily occupying.
I had arrived in a foreign country by myself, I didn’t know anyone and had never done such a thing before. I was in way over my head. So I did the best thing I could do at the time; freaked the hell out. I broke down. I showered, hoping it would wash away the puffy eyes and the holidayer’s equivalent of buyer’s remorse. But I didn’t stop crying, I felt pathetic.
It was a rocky start to a holiday that was meant to be ‘self-actualising’. I decided to spend a week in Portland before I headed north to Seattle, Washington where I would be living for the next three months. I had applied to the exchange program through my home university, La Trobe in Australia. At the time, I wanted out. I was felt stagnate, and I knew that this time I wasn’t prepared to just accept it. I was now old enough to take charge and I had run out of excuses.
So there I was, nine months after I applied, in America with big expectations. I had never felt so completely vulnerable before. There was a sudden realisation of how reliant I was on my friends and family. I didn’t have a phone, so I wasn’t able to get distracted by anyone else’s stories during my day. I had them completely to myself. Due to the time difference, the only time I could really speak to anyone was late at night.
After spending a few days in the city, I started to settle. The tears stopped and I was able to appreciate where I was and how I got there. I began to find my way around without a map, I knew what buses to take and where to get them from. I walked around the entire city and with each step I gained a little more confidence in myself.
***
My meeting with Jonathan Legare was serendipitous. On my second last day in Portland I decided to track down the houses and landmarks of my favourite musicians who had once inhabited the city, or still did. It was the one thing I had planned to do. One of the great things about the city is that it doesn’t really have any big tourist destinations. Apart from Oregon’s natural attractions, Portland doesn’t boast landmarks with $20 entry and lines that curl around corners; it’s just nice to be there.
My week was spent exploring the city, the parks, the shops – no sales tax – and the neighbouring areas. Hawthorne became one of my favourite areas to hang out and is where most of my story takes place.
My self guided tour wasn’t meticulously planned. It was a result of much googling and sneaky research. Elliott Smith became my main subject. He died in 2003 at age 34 while in Los Angeles, California. He spent most of his life in Portland, and it is speculated he took ‘Elliott’ from a street he lived on in Portland – he was born Steven Paul Smith.
With locations scribbled down, I tracked down Lincoln High School where Smith had graduated. It’s odd visiting a place that has some historical significance but carries on like it always did. I didn’t go inside because it’s still a functioning high school, so I didn’t get to see it as well as I would have liked. It was nice to be there though, to see where he grew up, we he started to grow into the person he would become.
The rest of my tour would take me to Hawthorne where I ate at Cup and Saucer, one of Smith’s old hangouts, where I tried to get an exact address. I also visited Artichoke Music where Smith and his friend Neil Gust traded a bike for an old acoustic guitar. The people in both shops had no idea where I could find his old home, or any of his others. The Artichoke Music folks didn’t even know who I was talking about, which was quite the blow to the idealistic music fan. I thought this town would be buzzing with musical history, and people would be putting hand-to-heart when they uttered the name Elliott Smith in reverent tones. Alas, reality is always a disappointing alternative to my imagination so I continued my journey to find Elliott Ave.
I had a photo in hand of a house that was meant to be Smiths old home. After walking down Elliott Avenue, reaching the area of Ladds Addition, passing that area and making it to Division St, I still hadn’t found his house. I was also a little lost.
There was one shop in the small suburban area, Legare’s Community Resource Centre, that I walked into flustered and red faced. The residual summer sun was beating down when I expected a mild fall.
Jonathan greeted me a with a friendly smile and a very helpful disposition. I simple asked if he had heard about Elliott Smith and whether his house was in the area. Instead of a dismissive ‘no’ he asked his friend Brock, who had his laptop out. Brock and I did some more googling to no avail. So Jonathan decided to send up some text messages and make some calls to people who might know. I was surprised at his willingness to help. Coming to the country I didn’t expect to run into such friendly and welcoming people, I thought I would get the ‘annoying tourist’ treatment. To be honest, I felt kind of guilty, like I was wasting their time, helping me with my petty quest to live some unlikely fantasy.
Jon offered me some coffee – real coffee like we use at home, not crappy American drip – and his signature guava cookies (which were amazing!). At this point more people had entered the shop, there were about five people on he case now. It was unbelievable to me how helpful everyone was. I had suddenly met all these people who were willing to help out a stranger, no questions asked. I was so happy to be there, I almost forgot what had brought me there in the first place.
Then, after hanging out for over an hour, Jon got a call back from his friend, Steve, who used to be a music producer. Steve had the answer.
Jon came with me to find the house while Steve was on the phone – he got the others to ‘mind’ the shop. We didn’t have to walk long before we found it. So there it was. On the corner of 15th and Division, a big old run down double storey house undergoing some serious renovations. I was standing in front of the house where Elliott Smith wrote the songs that I loved, where he lived and where he was inspired. The odd thing was, by the time I had reached my destination, I didn’t really care as much as I thought I would. Yes, I had found the house; but my entire day was so surprising and special that the end result didn’t seem as important as it did when my day began. I couldn’t believe the hospitality I had run into, and it was also a huge reality check. I was in a foreign country by myself, meeting people, hearing stories and asking questions; I was no longer scared.
Leading up to this day all I could think of was what could go wrong, I had all these potential dangers running through my mind. I doubted my ability to do it on my own. I was hoping this trip would do something to me, that it would give me some perspective at least, and within a week I had already noticed a change. I may not be self-actualised, but I do have some stories to tell.